Northern Travel: Summer and Winter Pictures of Sweden, Denmark and Lapland

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District of New York. PREFACE. This book requires no further words of introduction than those with which I have prefaced former volumes—that my object in travel is neither scientific, statistical, nor politico-economical; but simply artistic, pictorial,—if possible, panoramic. I have attempted to draw, with a hand which, I hope, has acquired a little steadiness from long practice, the people and the scenery of Northern Europe, to colour my sketches with the tints of the originals, and to invest each one with its native and characteristic atmosphere. In order to do this, I have adopted, as in other countries, a simple rule: to live, as near as possible, the life of the people among whom I travel. The history of Sweden and Norway, their forms of Government, commerce, productive industry, political condition, geology, botany, and agriculture, can be found in other works, and I have only touched upon such subjects where it was necessary to give completeness to my pictures. I have endeavoured to give photographs, instead of diagrams, or tables of figures; and desire only that the untravelled reader, who is interested in the countries I visit, may find that he is able to see them by the aid of my eyes. BAYARD TAYLOR. London CONTENTS. Page A WINTER VOYAGE ON THE BALTIC Embarking at Lübeck—Put into a Hut—The Company on Board—Night on the Baltic—Ystad—A Life Lost—Stopped by Ice—A Gale—The Swedish Coast—Arrival at Dalarö—Conscientious Custom-House Officer 13 STOCKHOLM—PREPARATIONS FOR THE NORTH. Departure in Sleds—A Meteor—Winter Scenery—Swedish Post- Stations —View of Stockholm—Arrival—Stockholm Weather—Swedish Ignorance of the North—Funds—Equipment 21 FIRST EXPERIENCES OF NORTHERN TRAVEL. A Swedish Diligence—Aspect of the Country—Upsala—A Fellow- Passenger—The Northern Gods—Scenery—Churches—Peasant's Houses—Arrival at Gefle— Förbud Papers—Speaking Swedish —Daylight at Gefle—A Cold Italian—Experience of Skjuts and Förbud —We reach Snow—Night Travel—An Arabic Landlord—A Midnight Chase—Quarters at Bro—The Second Day—We reach Sundsvall 27 A SLEIGH RIDE THROUGH NORRLAND. Sundsvall and the Norrlanders—Purchase Sleighs—Start again— Driving on the Ice—Breakfast at Fjäl—Twilight Hymn—Angermannland —A Bleak Day—Scenery of Norrland—Postillions—Increase of Cold —Dark Travel—The Norrland People—The Country and its Products —Northern Thanks—Umeå—The Inn at Innertafle