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Six days on the hurricane deck of a mule : $b An account of a journey made on mule back in Honduras, C.A. in August, 1891

by Almira Stillwell Cole

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Set in Honduras in August of 1891, this travelogue by Almira Stillwell Cole recounts a six-day mule-back journey through remote and largely uncharted terrain. The narrative is a personal account of the physical and environmental challenges encountered while traversing Central American landscapes, highlighting the difficulties of travel in undeveloped regions. Cole’s writing offers detailed observations of the landscape, local cultures, and the discomforts of life on a mule, capturing her emotional responses of humor, fear, and awe. The work was published posthumously, primarily intended for her friends and relatives, and provides an early perspective on adventure travel in Central America in the late 19th century.

It reflects the period’s fascination with exploration and the difficulties faced by travelers venturing into less known territories, combining personal narrative with descriptions of unfamiliar environments and cultural encounters. The account emphasizes the physical hardships and cultural differences encountered during the expedition, offering insight into the experience of traveling in remote Central American regions during this era.

From the opening pages

This book was published after the death of the writer, for distribution among her relatives and friends SIX DAYS ON THE HURRICANE DECK OF A MULE. Last spring I almost learned to ride a bicycle. Those who have had a similar struggle will correctly estimate the exact value of that word almost . I was laboring under peculiar difficulties, for I was a whilom inmate of one of those sacred institutions—a young ladies' boarding-school,—where any infringement upon the Spartan law of dignity would have been looked upon as less pardonable than a simultaneous indulgence in the seven deadly sins. My agony of mind and body under those circumstances can be better imagined than described. Methought life held no more painful experience, but how impossible it is to gauge endurance and classify suffering I have since learned. When, later on, I announced to my friends and relatives my intention of taking up a residence in the interior of Honduras for the ensuing five years, I was fairly overwhelmed by the storm of exclamations, reproaches, dire predictions, and tearful expostulations, none of which shook my resolution. I assured them that the trip was simple enough,—by steamer from New York to Colon , thence by rail to Panama , where a steamer was taken to Amapala , and then over the mountain on mule-back. One friend in vain tried to move me by drawing dreadful pictures of life with a ruined complexion; another assured me I was going to bury myself among barbarians; a third pointed out the miseries of sea-sickness and the certainty of death from some fever which would be sure to attack me at once, and so ad infinitum . I bore it all as meekly as possible and with outward patience, but inward raging. I told them I cared more for the complexion of my life than the amount of sun-kissed pigment my skin contained; I would civilize all the barbarians I found; and since others had endured sea-sickness so could I. However, at last a teasing cousin did hit upon a fact, and a stubborn one, which had tormented me considerably—that mule I was to ride. He assured me that had I ever attempted to ride a wheel I would have some idea of what was in store for me. With a sinking heart but unabashed countenance, I smiled a superior sort of smile and replied that I…

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